I'm with Contributor C - 3/4 backs, 3/4 sides and bottoms. I don't put screws into the lowers except during install, same as the uppers.ģ/4 backs hands down, glue and screwed. Of course this is done during the install. I also put a screw in the spot where it will be screwed to the wall into the stud. On uppers I put screws along with the 1 1/4" staples on the tops and bottoms. The only issue is keeping the interior of the cabinet consistent in which case you can nail a quarter inch to the interior side. It works on both exposed and non-exposed sides. I use integral ends with the 1/2" groove. I guess that most of you are using applied end panels since you're screwing the backs all the way around. If it’s an end cabinet, the exposed end gets a rabbet 1/2" deep plus 1/8 or so for scribe fit depending how much the wall is out of plumb. If it makes you feel better, you can fill the 1/2" void in the back with filler for a nailer.ġ/2" prefinished maple screwed on with #8x 1 1/2" screws 6" o.c. I'll make my insets slightly deeper than overlays to accommodate for interior depth problems. It’s easiest for construction as the backs, bottoms, and tops are all same length and the back serves as the nailer. I like to squeeze in some additional depth whenever possible.ġ/2" backs in grooves 1/2" in from the back edge. that are too big and preventing doors from closing, especially in compact kitchens in apartments and condos. I like to measure my clients stuff to make sure it will fit in the new uppers! They often have plates, etc. The nailer is inset so that it is flush with the inside edge of the rebate. For lower cabinets I use a 1/4" back set in a rebate. A nailer is really going to be overkill with a 3/4" back. I also screw the back securely to the box with 2" Spax screws. I build my upper cabinets with a 3/4" back attached with blind dados on two edges (CNC). We do a bunch of inset so we use 12" gables (sheet goods are oversizes) and that gives us 11 1/2" on the inside for clearance. We glue and shoot staples through the gables, and glue and shoot staples through the backs into the deck. They sit in rabbets in the gables and the deck and are screwed into the top. What is your shop’s preferred standard for cabinet backs? We find the more solid 1/2" looks better after you drill out for the water supply and drain or any other penetration through the back of the cabinet. Some shops will only do 1/4" backs with a 3/4" nailer and I have seen the GC complain that the backs look wavy. For us this has been a standard that we try to carry over to our millwork and casework shop drawings. We like to do a 1/2" captured back with a 1/2" nailer. I had a client recently that went to 3/4" Backs with 3/4" nailers and that messed up the interior clearance, so we try not to go over 1" total back thickness.
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